ONTARIO IGUANAS

MY NAME IS ROBIN AND I AM THE FOUNDER OF ONTARIO IGUANAS. I HAVE STARTED TO BREED QUALITY GREEN IGUANA MORPHS IN ONTARIO CANADA. I CURRENTLY OWN TWO COMPLETLY RED GREEN IGUANAS, TWO AXANTHIC GREEN IGUANAS AND ONE REGULAR GREEN IGUNA. HOPING TO GET A PAIR OF ALBINOS IN THE NEAR FUTURE

I HOPE YOU ENJOY MY NEW BLOG!!!

Saturday, 25 October 2014

KEEPING TRACK OF YOUR IGUANAS WEIGHT

I find keeping track of their weight to be a very helpful and interesting. When kept track of regularly these numbers can show you many different things.

This can be the most helpful during your iguana's first couple of years while they are still small.
I keep my numbers in grams, that way I can see slight changes. Certain things to look for are drastic changes in weight and what they relate to. For example if you move your iguana to a new enclosure or a new spot in the house you could see how this affects him physically by looking at his behaviours, how much he is eating and his weight change. If for what ever reason your iguana becomes sick, you can calculate how much weight he or she is loosing and how fast.
A good example of this is when I first got Pip he had worms. Now at first I didn't know he had them as I couldn't see them in his feces and he was eating lots of food but not getting bigger at all. This was then proven by the weight I was tracking of him. I could easily look back and pinpoint when he started loosing weight and how soon after treatment he started to gain it. Sadly I was given the wrong worm medication for him so it slowed them down but didn't get rid of them right away, which is why part of the reason why he is so much smaller than Molly, that and the fact Molly is an abnormally fast grower.

These numbers are a great resource for your vet to look at also. Even if you just take your ig for a check up your vet can have a look at the numbers also, it never hurts.


This year I will be paying a lot of attention to the breeding season of both Pip and Billy (both my males) as males loose a lot of weight during this time as they stop eating mostly or completely. I am really interested in what percentage of their body weight they loose.

I will also be focusing on my females. Before breeding season females tend to eat a lot more and bulk up to prepaid themselves for the coming months of being gravid. I will be documenting how much weight they gain during this time and how much they weigh after they lay their eggs to get a percentage.

I just use a small digital food scale that can change the unit it measures in, if you have an iguana that won't sit still or is aggressive (a male in breeding season) simple weigh them in a small grate then minus the weight of the crate.

The following are all the weights I have been keeping track of since the day I got Molly and Pip back in April of 2013. My main focus was the weight of Molly and Pip and recently I haven't been on the ball as much due to the basement renovation. However that will change soon :)




 
 
Thank you for reading
Robin Small

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

GET YOUR REPTILE IN A CALENDAR!

I AM GOING TO BE PUTTING 3 DIFFERET CALEDARS TOGETHER FILLED WITH PICTURES OF YOUR REPTILIAN FRIENDS. THE CALENDARS ARE

1. ALL REPTLE SPECIES  #REPTILECALENDAR
2. GREEN IGUNAS .           #IGUANACALEDAR
3. IGUANA MORPHS AND OTHER IGUANID SPECIES #MORPHCALENDAR


THESE CALENDARS WILL BE MADE TO ORDER ONLY. HERE ARE THE RULES AND HOW TO SUBMIT YOUR PHOTOS. I CAN ONLY FIT A MAX OF 72 PICTURES PER CALENDAR (6 PER PAGE)

1.  UPLOAD A MAX OF 2 PICTURES (FOR NOW) TO INSTAGRAM USING THE APPROPRIATE HASHTAG ABOVE FOR THE CALENDAR YOU WOULD LIKE TO ENTER. YOU CAN ENTER 2 PICTURES PER CALENDAR
2. ALL PICTURES MUST BE ENTERED  BEFORE OCTOBER 31ST OR MAY NOT BE USED
3. YOU MUST PRE PAY FOR YOUR CALENDAR ON MY ONLINE STORE HERE BETWEEN NOVEMBER 1ST TO NOVEMBER 10TH
4. PHOTOS ARE TO BE OF REPTILES ONLY, NO PEOPLE OR OTHER ANIMALS.
5. CALENDARS WILL BE 25$ PLUS SHIPPING. SEE ONLINE STORE FOR DETAILS AND PRICING.


THESE CAN MAKE EXCELLEND CHRISTMAS GIFTS FOR THE REPTILE LOVER IN YOUR FAMILY.

THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF THE CANADIAN HOLIDAYS THAT WILL BE LISTED

-NEW YEARS DAY
-FAMILY DAY
-VALENTINE'S DAY
-ST. PATRICK'S DAY
-GOOD FRIDAY
-EASTER MONDAY
-MOTHER'S DAY
-VICTORIA DAY
-FATHER'S DAY
-CANADA DAY
-CIVIC HOLIDAY
-LABOUR DAY
-THANKSGIVING
-HALOWEEN
-REMEMBRANCE DAY
-CHRISTMAS EVE
-CHRISTMAS DAY
-BOXNG DAY
-NEW YEARS EVE

THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF THE US HOLIDAYS THAT WILL BE LISTED

-NEW YEARS DAY
-MARTIN LUTHER KING DAY
-PRESIDENTS' DAY
-INDEPENDENCE DAY OBSERVED
-INDEPENDENCE DAY
-COLUMBUS DAY
-THANKSGIVNG DAY
-VICTORIANS DAY
-CHRISTMAS
-LABOUR DAY
-MEMORIAL DAY


SO REMEMBER....... YOU MUST PRE PAY FOR YOUR CALENDAR BY NOVEMBE 10TH AS I AM ONLY HAVING AS MANY AS ARE ORDERED MADE.  PLEASE ONLY ENTER PHOTOS  IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON PURCAHSING A CALENDAR. ONCE PICTURES START TO COME IN I WILL PUT PICTURES OF IT UP IN MY ONLINE STORE.

Friday, 10 October 2014

BUILT IN FIXTURES VS DOMES.

THERE ARE PROS AND CONS TO EACH.

I am switching all my enclosure over to built in light fixtures and getting rid of the domes. The only two enclosure that have domes are Molly's enclosure and my savannah monitor Louie. However once the basement is done then they will both have new enclosure and they will both have the built in lights.
You DO NOT need to have any electrical experience to hook these up, its very simple.

Things you will need.
Metal mounting bracket
Porcelain lampholder
Lamp replacement cord
2 screws (size depends on the thickness of your enclosure)
Screwdriver or drill
All these things can be found at any local home renovation store like Home Depot, RONA or Lowes

 The following picture is material for two heat bulbs
 At the top of the picture you can see two metal mounting brackets, these will be screwed to the ceiling of the enclosure where you wish to put the eat light. The circle shapes on the top of the bracket can be pushed pot easily to feed the wire through. If your domes are mounted inside the enclosure hanging on a hook you most likely have a hole already that the wire is exiting the enclosure from your dome. If its in the ceiling you can mount this bracket over the hole and feed the wire right through the top of the bracket and through the hole. If the existing wire hole is in a spot where you can't mount the bracket (ie. The side/back of the enclosure) ou can feed the wire through the side of the bracket where the mounting screw is then feed it out of the hole.

The next piece in this photo is porcelain lampholder. This is the piece you will be attaching your wires to as well as your heat bulb, you can purchase these with a pull chain to turn on and off ( I don't recommend those)

At the bottom of this pic you see the two lamp replacement cords. Its a simple cord with a on and off switch on it.  In total for one light it is less than $10 to have this full set up, which is cheaper than a dome. And takes up a lot less space.

The following picture is a close up of what the porcelain lampholder looks like.
 
NOTE
Before attaching the wires to the lampholder, feed the cord through the mounting bracket in the spot you need. If you don't do this you won't be able to feed it through after. FEED IT THROUGH THE MOUNTING BRACKET FIRST. (feed a lot of cord through to give yourself lots of room when it comes to hanging it up)
 
The following picture is demonstrating how to hook the wires up. On this side of the lampholder there are 4 screws, 2 on each side. DO NOT attach both wires to the same side. You will plug it in after and blow a fuse. So simple attach one wire to one side and another wire to the other side, both sides have different colour screws it doesn't matter what wire goes to what side. Just make sure they are not on the same side.  Place the exposed end of the wire under the screw and tighten the screw down so it pinches and holds the wire there.
 


 
So at this point you should have your cord fed through the mounting bracket (side or top depending where you're putting it) and attached to the porcelain lampholder. Take everything to the enclosure and if the cord is fed though the top of the bracket, feed the cord through the hole in the enclosure and mount the bracket to the ceiling with two screws. (bought separately) then slide the porcelain lampholder over the two screws on the bracket and tighten them as described above to hold everything in place. 
Now all you have to do is put your bulb in and plug the cord in and you have light and heat for your reptile.
 
 
 
Pros.
 
Takes up less space
Looks cleaner
Allows light to travel out more than a dome does
Easy to install only tools is a screwdriver or drill
Keeps the bulb from moving around which makes the bulb last longer (vs if you pick your domes up and move them) 
 
Cons.
If you have a large hole cut in the top of the enclosure covered in mesh where your dome sits you cannot month this there.
You can with a bit of work and filling the hole in but it make its a lot more work.
 
 This following photo shows the difference flight in Billy's enclosure when I switched his stuff over. He had the combination UV and heat bulb (I don't use these anymore) but his enclosure is so much brighter now.
 
 
This may be hard to understand however I will be making a YouTube video to better describe and actually show you how to put this together and mount it in an enclosure.
 
 
Robin Small
Ontario Iguanas.



Wednesday, 1 October 2014

TAIL REGROWTH IN IGUANAS.

A lizard never WANTS to drop off any amount of their tail, the only time a lizard will drop its tail is when they feel their life is threatened and its a last resort to escape the predator. When I mean last resort it really is just that, an iguana may try absolutely everything to get away before dropping its tail.
Things to avoid to keep your lizard's tail intact. NEVER hold your iguana by the tail, even with the body supported if you are holding the tail there is a possibility of it leading to the tail dropping if he/she becomes frightened. The best place to hold the back of the iguana for support is placing your palm of your hand under the base of the tail with your fingers running up the stomach and up the side in front of the hind legs.
If your iguana got loose and you are trying to catch it do not grab it by the tail, if your iguana is already panicky and you grab it suddenly by the tail its likely going to drop it in the frightened state.

If you happen to grab the tail the iguana will most likely do a few things prior to dropping it. The iguana should first wiggle the tail hard trying to get you to let go, then may start to try to run and roll.

No iguana wants to rope their tail and will do anything to keep from loosing it.

Other reason for a dropped tail. You don't have to grab a tail for it to drop off, the tail is long and for babies its very slender, the tail could get pinched in a door by accident. When this happens its often a small section at the end of the tail maybe an inch or two. If this happens you will notice a flattened spot where it got pinched, let the iguana body handle the rest but keep monitoring it (unless signs of infection occur, I will talk about the next). The section of the tail from the pinch to the tip will become rock hard in the next couple days, this is the section of the tail dyeing. Once the section is dead the iguana will then drop that section.

When caring for a dropped tail it may vary depending on how much of the tail was lost. Remember! Iguanas are built to withstand this type of injury in the wild where its far from clean. They are tough lizards, just keep the area dry and clean until the open tip has healed over. You can put an antibiotic ointment on it such as polysporn once a day to help fight any infection. If the drop affects more than half the length of the natural tail, please take the iguana to a vet to be checkout. The higher the drop the larger the blood vessels are and it will affect more nerves. The care is relatively the same, will just take longer for the pen end to heal over. Make sure the iguana has enough calcium in the diet to allow the REGROWTH to happen safety without having to strip it from other parts of the iguana's body

Another reason an iguana may drop its tail is from an infection. There are different ways an infection may occur, a cat scratch, dog bite etc. one common way an infection may occur is from the iguana hitting his or her tail off of something hard like a corner of a wall or an end of a branch/shelf in the enclosure. When an iguana whips his or her tail its very fast with a lot of power, if it hits something the wrong way it may cause a cut or some sort of injury that leads to infection. Signs of infection normally are swelling and a liquid yellow pus substance. As the tail swells the scales drift apart and you begin to see the pus between the scales.
The following pictures are not mine, I took them off of Google. However these photos show a tail injury on a green iguana and different ways they can look.

this photo shows a cut on the tail, this can be caused by another pet or smacking it very hard off an object.
notice both of the puncture marks on the tail, this was most likely caused by a bite, those marks are probably from a cat.
 
WHEN YOU SUSPECT INFECTION PLEASE TAKE YOUR IGUANA TO SEE A VET.
IF YOUR IGUANA GETS GAUNGRENE IT WILL NEED SURGERY TO REMOVE AS SECTION OF THE TAIL ABVE THE INFETION TO STOP IT FROM SPREADING.
 
When at the vet your iguana will most likely be prescribed an antibiotic and have the infected area wrapped. IF THE TAIL GETS WRAPPED, KEEP THE DRESSING DRY
 
 
 
A dropped or removed tail affects more than just the look of the iguana. Depending on the age it can be more serious. With baby and juvenile iguana it can be very substantial. If a baby ig looses a lot of their tail it also looses fat stores along with his way of defending him or herself. So a baby with a missing tail may be more flighty then it was before I dropped I as they may feel more vulnerable without it. Not only that but for the REGROWTH of the tail it takes a lot of energy, and nutrients. When your iguana Is regrowing his or her tail their diet is very important to make sure they have everything they need to stay healthy during this period.
 
REGROWTH
 
The following pictures are of my iguana's tails. Each picture will have an explanation bellow it.
First off when a tail REGROWS it will never look or act the same or grow as long as the original tail. Also the tail may not grow back at all. There are two types of breaks in the tail. Between the vertebrae and in the middle of a vertebrae. Depending on where the break is the iguana may not have any REGROWTH in the tail.
 
This is Pip's tail. When purchased him he was shipped to me. From what I seen it looked like when they were putting the lid on the container his tail got pinched in it. About an inch and a half fell off shortly after I got him. He has never had any REGROWTH, the tip healed over and that was it,
  I accidentally pinched Billy's tail in his enclosure door and it got pinched, he lost about 3 inches from it. You can see in his talk a bit of a crook in the end, he had it pinched again but I have no idea what it was from as I didn't see it. It wasn't a hard enough pinch to cause it to die and drop off however just a little bend. ( I always watch so carefully know when I put any of my iguanas away, their tails are so thin on the ends they can slide through anything)
This is Phoenix's tail. She has about half her original tail, she was like this when I purchased her so I do not know how or why her tail was dropped. However she has some very slight REGROWTH starting in the tail. When I got her she had about 5 layers of stuck on shed on there tail which I'm assuming affected the growing process.
Lastly this is Sassy's tail. Sassy became scared one day and whipped her tail and smacking it off the corner of a door frame. It became infected and swollen, I took her to a vet once a week to have an antibiotic injection (she didn't do an oral antibiotic.) the tail was then cleaned and wrapped. unfortunately the wrapping got wet one day while she went to the bathroom causing it not to heal properly. She was scheduled to have it surgically removed since it wasn't healing and it was spreading up the tail. About 4 days before the surgery Sassy actually dropped the section of the tail that was infected (about 5 inches) the break was not straight up and down I was on an angle. I took her back into the vet for a final check up and she just healed normally at home. Due to it being on an angle her REGROWTH grew downwards but stated to curled and to the side since it was dragging on the ground all the time. This is about 3 years of REGROWTH and about as long as it should get. 
 
 
 
SO IT GOES TO SHOW YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO COMPLETLY AVOID A TAIL FROM DROPPING OFF AS ACCIDENTS HAPPEN HOWEVER YOU CAN LOWER THE CHANCES. LIMIT THE STRESS FOR YOUR IGUANA ANY WAY YOU CAN TO HELP LIMIT THE POSSIBILITY.
 
I HOPE THIS WAS HELPFUL!
 
ROBIN.